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Scout Co: ihc Scout II's
Scout problems and solutions


Scout II Bikini Tops | *NEW* Scout II SportsBar | Scout II Rollbar | other parts... | SEAFOAM Products | My 73 Scout II: "TIGGER" | Tech Tips

There are a number of issues that plague our
Scout II's...
-as you NOW know!

Many of these are just oversights from the designers,
that unfortunately can lead to huge problems
down the line if not modified for.

I will list a few issues,
then further down go into some detail as to how to correct them.


-hot start problems
-gold box failure
-dim headlights
-no reverse lights
-roof rust
-rear wheel well rust
-rear of front fender rust
-rear edge of body rust
-end cap separation from body
-Road noise with hard top on (rings like a bell)
-seat base rust
-front floor rust.


*hot start problems
Bypass the built in starter solenoid with
another one remotely located to a cooler area on the firewall.

See design here:

*gold box failure
People frequently complain about
'those damn gold boxes'
when the factory electronic ignition finally fails.

It is over-looked however that those SAME systems worked flawlessly for the first 150,000 - 200,000 miles!

You can switch to a 'better' ignition system...
or just replace the same one with a new goldbox
and pick-up module.
Just be sure to add a heat sink to the goldbox
this time to help it dissipate the heat.

I like to move the mounting location to the other side of the hood cowl
-( the fresh air from for the vents will cool,
and it is away from engine heat.)

*dim headlights
Run the headlight power directly from the battery
via a heavy duty relay,
using the standard wiring as the trigger.

*no reverse lights
Open the right rear tail light assembly and look for
a live wire that is loose in the end cap.

This is frequently the cause of many electrical problems.
I believe it is wire #71 from the fuse block...
and will generally show signs of melting.

*roof rust
The roof is constructed from two pieces of metal....
the roof cap and the side supports.
Where the roof cap meets the sides
(at the rain gutters)
there is very old caulking that has begun to fail by now.
This old sealant dries out, warps and cracks...
allowing moisture to seep between the sheets
and begin the cancer.
This rain gutter was also designed to CATCH rain
but not to drain it...
so we will solve that as well.

Get a wire brush attachment for you grinder or drill...
and grind out the entire gutter caulk down to bare metal.
(remove the big chunks first as you can with a flat screwdriver)
When stripped repair any rust-through holes with JB Weld.
Drill a few drain holes (3/16) located just in front of the side window edge,
and two at the rear corners on either side of that clamp.

Clean the gutter with acetone or Xylene and allow to dry fully.

Apply a thick bead of black polyurethane to the gutter
then 'pull' it through with a small finger
to fill completely the gutter sides and bottom.

("PL" brand 'roof and flashing sealant' at HomeDepot is great)

Use a wire to pull the sealant though the drain holes
you drilled as well.

Clean your fingers with Xylene.

*rear wheel well rust
If your are still good, do this NOW.
This is the result of a gross design error!
There is an open channel at the rear of the wheel edge
that allows the tires to flip ANYTHING
up into the wheel wells!
(This includes dirt, dust, sand, mud, and ROAD SALTS!!!)

First the fix....

-cut a 'access panel' from the inside 6"x8" wide
just above the wheel wells.
Now clean out these wells with water, brushes, scrubbing etc....
When completely dry (wait a few days!)
pour a liquid sealant substance such as Herculiner
into the seam to seep into the blind areas
where the problems begin.

Now brush the same over as much of the interior
of the hump at is possible.
While you have access to the interior of the panels spray liberally
two cans per side rubberized undercoating.
Now make a cover for you panel from a piece of
your favorite metal 7"x9" and screw down.
(I use painted aluminum diamond plate)

Now the block....

This really is not mandatory if you did the above correctly,
as the contaminants are just sitting on
the rubber isolated from the metal.

To block this future problem install mud flaps,
or weld sheet metal over the channel
with drain holes to allow water drainage.

*rear of front fender rust
This is caused by the 'blocked dam effect'!
First a few pine needles fall into the fresh air vents....
and fall the the side, then add a few leaves,
more needles, some small sticks, some dirt and dust, then add water!

The normally draining side panel suddenly
gets dammed up and a waterline is formed....
-then comes the rust!

Best thing to do is either attach a screen to
the underside of the vent openings....
or lift the hood and remove the rear cowl and
attach a screen to the sides where things drop into the side panels.

*rear edge of body rust
This is generally a result of the roof rust spreading down...
fix the roof and not an issue.

*end cap separation from body
This is especially a problem if you have a rear
tire carrier or use the rear tailgate alot involving weight.

Get a wire wheel and grind the sealant down to bare metal
from the edge of the end cap where it joins the side rear fender.

Now weld the two together.

As well weld the inside rear corners that are located
inside the truck as above.

*road noise with hard top on (rings like a bell)
This is generally the case of a hardtop that is bare
without the interior padding.

First be sure to do the roof repair mentioned above.
Now from the inside apply 'seam sealer' to all the seams.
Then spray all the interiors of the roof with rubberized undercoating.
This should cut the sounds dramatically.
If not enough -attach 1/2" styrofoam panel pieces (HomeDepot!)
to the interior sides with heavy duty Liquid Nails adhesive.

*seat base rust
Remove the seat bases from the truck.
Repaint and repair as needed,
same for floor.
Reinstall the bases on top of large square
'concrete anchor' washers (HomeDepot).
This spacing will now allow water to run under
the seats and not get trapped to rust.

*front floor rust.
FIRST.... remove everything down to the bare painted metal!!!

Now you REALLY know the extent of damage...
Repair with new metal as needed, and be sure to push out
those drain plugs in the rear corners...
-as that is why you have the issue!

Drill a 1" drain hole in each corner
(you will later be using boat plugs to block as needed.)
Apply Herculiner to all the bare metals and entire floor areas.

These are just a few modifications that
will ensure your Scouts to last for many more years to come.

If you need help with anything else...
-drop me a note.

Steve Bigler